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Prepare to queue for Gucci's whimsical

Le 23 février 2017, 04:21 dans Humeurs 0

Prepare to queue for Gucci's whimsical and eccentric new collection

Gucci autumn/ winter 2017

The queues – yes queues! – outside Gucci’s stores around the world are clearly not just window shoppers. The brand recently opened a new 377,000 square feet HQ in Milan.

A former aeronautical factory built in 1915, it is now Planet Gucci, complete with a studio for Gucci’s resident graffiti artist, entertaining areas for clients, showrooms and 2,000 square feet of catwalk space.

It’s here that the revived economics of Gucci start. In today’s show – the first to fully combine men’s and women’s wear, as is the prevailing trend - Alessandro Michele sent out 105 looks. That’s prodigious by any standards, but when you consider that for Michele, each “look” comprises enough merchandise to fill a rail, you begin to glimpse some of the drive and, probably obsession, of the mild seeming Michele.

“Yes, I’m crazy to produce so much,” he said during a sneak preview before the show, leading me from one sensory pile-up to the next. “But a creative person doesn’t always know where they’re going. You have to follow wherever your inspiration takes you.”

Michele’s inspiration tends to lead to dream-like interior monologues, with wildly commercial results. There was a jacket embroidered with the word Sissinghurst, the garden Vita Sackville-West created in Kent. He’s never been there, and doesn’t want to, in case it disappoints. “Sometimes it’s better just to travel in the mind,” he says.

The jacket worn – I think, by a male model - with a tartan kilt and an overgrown bowler hat is typical of the way Michele cross pollinates cultures and historical eras. So too is the gender ambiguity. Was that a titian bobbed girl or boy wearing a lavender velvet jacket and emerald green flared trousers? Who cares? While women have been happy to shop the men’s department for decades, increasingly, men are browsing in the women’s section.

Almost every taste is catered for in Gucci’s collections these days, including the deviant: chain mail masks, men in heels and scoop-fronted Lurex catsuits – Michele’s taste may seem sweet but it’s seasoned with subversion.

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Simone's army of women of all ages seduces

Le 21 février 2017, 04:13 dans Humeurs 0

Simone's army of women of all ages seduces with its catwalk story-telling

The look was softened by delicate flowers, beading and contradictory layering that was totally seductive in its story-telling.

The 30-year-old Dublin-born designer opened her show on Saturday with gleaming, bonded velvet trench coats and suits toughened up with Sam Brown belts.

Romantic floral embellished tulles were layered up in bewildering, intriguing confections of rich reds and blacks.

There were glimpses of dense red and black crystal beading popping up on socks, fur stoles and on pretty black pinafore dresses worn with gingham shirts.

A model wears a creation at the Topshop Unique catwalk show. Photo: REUTERS/Neil Hall

Simone's female army were kitted out in monochrome, window pane chequered tweeds with a Prince of Wales detail, some trimmed with faux fur on the pockets - judicious continuity of her SS17 suiting, something her committed customers will enjoy.

The inclusion of four older models alongside current runway stars was welcomed universally.

Simone's father John explained that two had walked for him - Cecilia Chancellor in London in 1993 and Marie Sophie Wilson in Paris in 1995.

Back straight, salt and pepper hair scraped back, 73-year-old Italian modelling star Benedetta Barzini marched through Lancaster House in a stunning full-skirted black dress, its surface covered in crocheted black leather flowers.

Another silver-haired beauty, Jan de Villeneuve, shot to fame working with David Bailey and Norman Parkinson and at 70, she walked for Rocha in a glossy black, faux fur belted coat, bow leather bag and tulle skirt.

At first glance, sliders and tall ankle socks may not be for everyone but I've no doubt that Simone's fur-lined, bejewelled footwear will become a style trend, just like her crystal-heeled brogues.

Hand plaited braids provided alternative cross-body belting and suiting was softened with generous faux fur stoles and 'messenger boy' leather bags which hung from belts.

There was a constant intrigue with what lay beneath and at Lancaster House, guests leaned forward for a better view of the fast-moving female army layered in organza embroidered with floral motifs in reds and yellows.

Models walked purposefully and carried their bags like hot water bottles to their chests.

Simone explained how the collection was her "interpretation of armour as a kind of camouflage".

Favourite looks included a cream tulle dress embroidered with sprigs of red and pink flowers worn under a luxuriously generous-sized faux fur wrap embroidered with clumps of sparking red crystals and a cream and black crocheted dress worn with furry slipper shoes.

Topshop's packed AW17 show at the Tate Modern in Bankside was all about the urban traveller, but the highlight was undoubtedly the clutch of fluid dresses that hid little, and played up toned bums, with sculptural curves. Bias cut, the dresses slipped nonchalantly off shoulders and as the PR put it, they "spelt sinuous glamour".

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From Ruth van Beek to corduroy

Le 18 février 2017, 07:48 dans Humeurs 0

Glamorous woman blow drying her hair

From Ruth van Beek to corduroy: this week’s fashion trends

Going up

Pin curls As seen on model Ondria Hardin in the new issue of Love. Time to stock up on those bobby pins.

Bar Six, New York, 1994 Where Marc Jacobs met Frances Bean Cobain, aged two. More than 22 years later, she stars in his spring/summer campaign.

Ruth van Beek The Dutch artist collaborates with Marni this month. See collages and cactuses on bags and T-shirts, aka great additions to our private view-ready wardrobe.

ZwinZuit Bikinis made of neoprene and designed to stay in place beyond the sunlounger to Doing Proper Lengths.

Corduroy Velvet’s more erudite cousin.

Juergen x Adidas The Juergen Teller photographed Adidas campaign shot in Berlin – aka when hipness reaches critical mass.

Going down

Breadcrumbing A la Hansel and Gretel … leading someone on by intermittently liking their posts on social media. And nothing more. Where’s the happy ending in that?

Tremendous Donald Trump ruins another perfectly good word. See also: great, terrific.

#glamsquad A bit 2016 in a world where raw reality rules at Martine Rose and the Tate with Wolfgang Tillmans. Replace with #dayrealness.

Tit tape Bikinis fashioned from electrical tape to promote tanning. Summer’s never felt so bleak.

New York, London, Milan, Paris Fashion capitals no longer. Vetements is rumoured to be moving their HQ to Zurich.

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